frying the tortillas. Cut the tortillas in half, then cut crosswise into strips. In a medium-large (4-quart) saucepan, heat l/i inch of oil over medium to 350 deg F, Add half the tortilla strips. Stir around in the oil nearly constantly until they are golden brown and crispy. With a slotted spoon, scoop them out and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining tortillas

other preliminaries. Pour off all but a thin coating of hot oil from the saucepan and return to the heat. Add the garlic and onion to the pan and cook, stirring regularly, until golden, about 7 minutes. Use the slotted spoon to scoop out the garlic and onion, pressing them against the side of the pan to leave behind as much oil as possible, and transfer the garlic and onion to a blender or food processor.
Add the chile pieces to the hot pan. Turn quickly as they fry, toast and release a delicious aromaÔÇöabout 30 seconds in all. Too much frying/toasting will make them bitter. Remove and drain on paper towels. Set the pan aside

the broth. Add the tomatoes to the blender containing the garlic and onion and process to a smooth puree. (If using fresh tomatoes, strain the puree to get rid of the pieces of tomato skin.) Set the saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the puree and stir nearly constantly until it has thickened to the consis­tency of tomato paste, about 10 minutes. Add the broth and epazote and bring to a boil, then partially cover and gently simmer over medium to medium-low heat for 30 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually ? teaspoon, depending on the saltiness of your broth

4 serving the soup. Divide the cheese and avocado among the soup bowls. Ladle a portion of the broth into each bowl, top with a portion of the tortilla strips and crumble on a little toasted chile. Carry these satisfying bowls of soup to the table and offer your guests wedges of lime to squeeze in to their liking

working ahead: Steps 2 and 3 can be completed several days ahead (which means you'll have the soup virtually ready to serve). Store the soup in the refrigerator, covered. The tortilla strips (Step l) will begin to taste stale if they're not served the day fried